ABSTRACT

Madder red is an ancient dyestuff, extracted from the root of the madder plant, growing in many countries around the world. The secret and devilishly complex Oriental dyeing process to obtain the lustrous colour known as Turkey Red was avidly sought by Europeans, from the time before the fall of Ancient Rome. It was finally cracked by the French about 1760, who were able to dye wool, silk and cotton bright red. After the lowlands of the Caspian Caucasus had been subdued by the Russians in the early 1800s, madder was cultivated there and rapidly became the main crop. The quest for Turkey Red went hand in hand with an avalanche of scientific research, which not only improved the yield of dyestuff from the roots but led to its chemical synthesis and in 1870 the collapse of the world-wide madder industry. Many of the nascent dye companies grew into chemical giants of our time. Further regional and cultural background may be found in Chenciner's Daghestan: Tradition and Survival, also published in the Caucasus World series.

chapter 1|2 pages

Russian Dreams of the Bearded Root

chapter 2|8 pages

The Word & The Plant

chapter 3|33 pages

The 5,000-Year-Old Root:

History in the Old World

chapter 4|43 pages

The Venturers' Legacy

chapter 5|29 pages

The Care of Madder from Seed to Sack

chapter 6|15 pages

The Farmer's Rewards, Banks & Bankruptcy

chapter 7|17 pages

The Purer the Colour:

Ground Krap and Garancine

chapter 8|9 pages

Inside the Vat:

The Hunt for the Dyestuff

chapter 10|37 pages

Leonardo's Choice Madder Lakes

chapter 11|50 pages

The Secret Recipes of Turkey Red

chapter 12|40 pages

An Oriental Tradition

chapter 13|22 pages

Fashionable Prices

chapter 14|18 pages

The 19th-Century Madder Boom

chapter 15|13 pages

Coal Tar Reds & The Death of Madder

chapter 16|18 pages

William Morris:

The Sumptuous Resurrection

chapter 17|25 pages

The Dyer's Grail:

Alchemical Philosophies & Folklore