ABSTRACT

In its first years as an independent state, Azerbaijan was a prime example of post-Soviet chaos - beset by coups and civil strife and astride an ethnic, political and religious divide. Author Goltz was detoured in Baku in mid-1991 and decided to stay, this diary is the record of his experiences.

chapter 1|34 pages

Getting There Fair and Square

chapter 2|7 pages

A Distant Coup

chapter 3|30 pages

Friday Evening on Freedom Square

chapter 4|15 pages

Karabakh: The Black Garden

chapter 5|17 pages

Home Sweet Baku

chapter 6|19 pages

A Reborn Republic

chapter 7|14 pages

Xodjali

chapter 8|18 pages

Slithering in the Swamp

chapter 9|12 pages

Of Militias and Mamed the Mule

chapter 11|22 pages

Riding the Roller Coaster

chapter 12|16 pages

Coup Redux

chapter 13|16 pages

From Ballots to Bullets

chapter 14|19 pages

An Army Stumbles Forward

chapter 15|12 pages

Alla Turca

chapter 16|18 pages

Of War—and Oil

chapter 17|10 pages

Corruption in the Ranks

chapter 18|19 pages

Rumblings of Dissent

chapter 19|23 pages

The Snow Job

chapter 20|26 pages

Kelbajar

chapter 21|18 pages

The Lull Before the Storm

chapter 22|27 pages

The Crowbar—Or Heydar Comes Home

chapter 23|22 pages

Meanwhile, Back at the Front ...

chapter 24|19 pages

Azerbaijan, Azerbaijan ...

chapter 25|19 pages

Scars on the Soul