ABSTRACT
Mountaineering and climbing have been closely related since their respective origins at the dawn of the nineteenth century. In some respects, they are unique in the world of sport as both are practised without formal regulations or refereeing. The introduction of new technical equipment, however, has regularly sparked conflict and tensions around how these two sports should be defined. Moreover, between the two world wars, attempts to streamline the processes of ascension provoked heated controversy over the status of mountaineering and rock climbing as elite activities, with some practitioners fearing that they would become mere ‘sports like any other’. Similar concerns were voiced in the 1960s over the advent of ‘artificial rock climbing’, which was denounced by many as a form of ‘technological drift’ that threatened the very objective of engaging in these two activities. Yet despite all the protestations from various corners, these traditional activities have recently split off into highly specific sporting categories like via ferrata, ice climbing and indoor wall climbing, and competitions are now held alongside traditional mountain climbing and rock climbing in natural settings. The diversification in activities has in many ways been a positive development for the climbing community, as there is now something for everyone: climbing appeals as much to those who want to push themselves to their limits as to those who find climbing an opportunity for contemplation, and international competitions are a magnet for those who want to measure their performance against the best. A historical perspective on climbing and mountaineering will provide insight into the dynamics that have characterised the changes in these sports and will help to understand the social challenges they have posed.
