ABSTRACT

The cosmetic industry is constantly searching for a straightforward approach to the development of emulsions. A concept that gave a significant reduction in development time by an appropriate selection of emulsifiers and oils, together with economic use of both raw materials and equipment, would be of particular interest. Existing formulation concepts offer quantitative and/or qualitative criteria based on either the sensory aspects [1–3] or the émulsification process. Amongst the various concepts to be considered based on the émulsification process are the HLB concept of Griffin [4, 5], the EIP (émulsification inversion point) of Marszall et al. [6–8], the HLB temperature or PIT (phase 208inversion temperature) of Shinoda et al. [9, 10] and the CAPICO-concept (calculation of phase inversion in concentrated emulsions) of Wadle et al. [3,11,38].