ABSTRACT
The lives of millions of people are determined by events in the ocean. Some of them have an extreme wave character. These include tsunamis and seaquakes. One of the first these phenomena were described and explained by Charles Darwin in his remarkable book “The Voyage of the Beagle” as well as in several other publications. In this chapter, the Darwin’s observations are modeled.
In Section 9.1, the Chilean tsunami of 1835 is described. The appearance of three giant waves and the occurrence of ebb before them are modeled in the next section. The theory of these giant waves is presented in Section 9.3. The amplification and evolution of these waves is associated with the resonance of these waves when they run through a coastal zone (resonant band). The resulting effects are quite consistent with the topographic effect described in Chapter 8. At the end of this chapter, we use the developed theory so that to study the evolution of various ocean coastal waves.
