ABSTRACT
Large-Wave Simulation (LWS) for spilling breaking of refracted waves is presented. The method, originally presented for two-dimensional deep waves, is reformulated to simulate three-dimensional flow in the coastal zone. According to LWS, an σ-type transformation is applied to the Euler equations, followed by filtering of all flow variables, including free-surface elevation, to separate resolved and Subgrid Scales (SGS), as in Large-Eddy Simulation (LES). The novelty in LWS is the modeling of the wave SGS stresses that emerge by the filtering procedure in the form of velocity/free-surface elevation correlations. The numerical scheme includes a fractional time-step operator and a hybrid spatial discretization, consisting of central finite differences and pseudospectral approximations. The method was validated for waves propagating normal to the shore and good agreement with experimental data is achieved. Results of breaking waves at incident angle of 42° in deep water show the formation of a surface roller whose orientation follows the shape of the breaking crestlines.
