ABSTRACT

Yuzen-zome is a traditional method of dyeing in Japan. It is still one of the most popular techniques to dye. Especially, the method which a cloth is dyed in Kyoto city called "Kyo-Yuzen-zome".Kyo-Yuzen-zome has 4 kinds of dyeing techniques; Hand-write dyeing, Model-used dying, Screen dying and Mechanical dyeing. In this study, we focused on Hand-write dyeing. This method can divide into 11 Processes. Each process is handled by specialist by hand work. As you see, there are many processes to dye a fabric, which means there are many factors, which value the dyed-one. In particular, at putting-past (Nori-oki) process, expert must care which past they use, starch past or rubber-past. Starch-past gives more grace and makes it more “Hannari”. Hannari is an adjective to eulogize the dyed fabric. However, nobody has defined what is hannari. Therefore, we are concerned with what is Hannari and what function makes fabrics hannari to dye fabrics better and better. In 169this study, effects between starch-past and rubber-past on Nori-oki process were evaluated.