ABSTRACT

The most important physical effects associated with the nonlinear wave transformation of waves in near shore regions can be described by Boussinesq-type equations. One example of this class of equations was introduced by Nwogu (1993). These equations describe the nonlinear evolution of waves over a sloping impermeable bottom. Their range of validity extends from shallow up to intermediate water depths where the nonlinear and dispersive effects are mild. Therefore, they seem adequate to describe the wave field outside and inside ports, harbors and sheltered zones. In the last few decades several authors have been working to extend the applicability domain of these equations to deep as well as very shallow waters and also to include other physical phenomena such as currents, wave breaking, bottom friction, etc. . .