ABSTRACT

Of all the types of waves at the ocean surface wind waves account for more then half of the energy, surpassing the contribution of tides, tsunamis, coastal surges, etc. (Kinsman 1965). Wind waves (henceforth simply called “waves”) are generated by the wind and propagate under the restoring force of gravity. At the ocean surface waves that are generated locally by the prevailing winds (wind sea waves) co-exist with waves that were generated elsewhere and propagated into the area (swell waves). Swell waves can propagate very long distances across the World Ocean with little attenuation (Ardhuin et al. 2009). In the open ocean wind sea and swell waves co-exist more often than not as the result of contributions from waves systems with different origins and ages.