ABSTRACT

The main purpose of this work is on the base of experimental data to find out the distinctions and features of spectral structure of waves, breaking in coastal zone by different types.

2 EXPERIMENTS

2.1 Laboratory experiments

Two laboratory experiments were carried out in the wave flume of Research Center “Sea Coasts” in Sochi, Russia. Length of the flume is 22 m, width-0.8 m, depth-1 m. In the first experiment initially monochromatic waves propagate over underwater bar with a forward slope 0.043 and water depth 0.6 m (Fig. 1a). Waves were measured synchronously by 8 capacity type wire gauges. Duration of each run of measurements was 3 min with sampling frequency 200 Hz (Kuznetsov, Saprykina, 2009).