Taste of Place

Terroir refers to the “set of all environmental factors that affect a crop's phenotype, including unique environmental contexts, farming practices, and a crop's specific growth habitat. Collectively, these contextual characteristics are said to have a character; terroir refers to this character.”¹ Terroir is a marriage of environmental and experiential factors of a place that result in the particular qualities of taste, smell, and appearance said to be epigenetic with a plant sourced from that place. For this chapter, Laura Parker collected statements from three soil practitioners, a soil scientist she was introduced to for the chapter, and two long-term collaborators and organic farmers, to create a portrait of terroir in words to accompany images of her terroir-based artworks. Soil scientist and field geologist, Scott Burns, from Portland State University, speaks from the point of view of a field scientist. From the perspective of Tom Willey of T&D Willey Farms and Lou Preston of Preston Farm & Winery, the soil is first and foremost experiential through the senses. For people who have their hands in the soil every day, the authors approach the soil primarily through an embodied knowledge of place. The conversation centers around Parker's ongoing performance and installation work, Taste of Place (2006–ongoing), which offers participants soil tasting experiences as if they were tasting fine wines. After smelling, tasting, and touching the soil, participants are presented with a variety of vegetables, fruits, and cheeses grown from those soils.