It is almost a cliché to say that India’s appearance and image (internationally as well as its self-image) have changed dramatically in the last fi fteen years. Instead of being associated with rural poverty, India is now associated with high rates of economic growth, a booming information technology (IT) sector and, particularly, an increasingly expanding middle class that consumes and behaves like elites and middle classes elsewhere in the world. Considering that cities concentrate many of the defi ning features of the middle classes (wealth, white collar jobs, educational institutions, and shops), the middle-classisation of Indian cities seems a foregone conclusion. Indeed, the changing urban landscape testifi es to the increasing infl uence of a better-off, consumerist, western-oriented section of the population: malls replace small roadside shops (Voyce 2007); restaurants and multiplexes mushroom all over the city; cows, cycles and scooters progressively disappear from the roads and are replaced by luxury cars (Baviskar 2007); apartment complexes multiply, communities are increasingly gated (Falzon 2004), even while slums are slowly but surely driven towards the periphery (Dupont and Ramanathan 2009). In urban India, the rich are more and more visible, the poor less and less so.1