ABSTRACT
To speak of the ‘veil’ is an exercise in misleading reductionism given the diverse styles of female dress both within and across classes in Muslim societies. However, the familiar motif of ‘unity and diversity’, which allows commentators to address local variations of Islam within the overarching framework of universal principles and practices, can also be used to approach the question of hijab (religious modesty) and veiling. There is a wide range of ‘styles of veil’ from the uniform black cloaks worn by women in post-revolution Iran, to the exclusive ‘designer’ scarves of women of the ‘new aristocracy’ in Egypt. Along this continuum of veiling, which runs from state-regulated attire to individual fashion accessory, there is ample room for the many local varieties, including the brightly coloured scarves of Turkish peasant girls, the the ‘Tie Rack’ wraps of European Muslims, the white haik of Algerian women and the burja of women in Oman. The universal aspect of each of these different styles of dress stems from the formal symbolic and practical aims of hijab; to preserve modesty and conceal the shame of nakedness.
