ABSTRACT
The accession of Henry VIII in 1509 marked a shift in how jewels and gemstones, whether worn using the body or clothing as a foil, were understood by early modern men and women. This Tudor king began to use jewelled accessories, as well as his dress, to compete with his fellow European sovereigns, notably François I. The jewels Henry wore reflected his wealth and magnificence and, by extension, that of the nation. Throughout the sixteenth century and into the reigns of Henry’s children, jewels were often symbolic, taking on a value beyond their intrinsic monetary worth as they were worn and circulated within a culture of gift-giving so prevalent within the court. This chapter explores the myriad meanings that jewellery and gemstones had within the English court and beyond.
