ABSTRACT

This chapter discusses how modeling agents use numbers and measurements as part of a larger process of commodification in modeling: a model’s measurements dictate not only whether an agency will represent them but what the model will be expected to do in the field. Agents evaluate and then place models into employment categories based on these subjective thresholds. The fashion market is segmented (e.g., women’s and men’s, straight- and plus-size, and commercial and editorial), with each market dominated by a specific look and size specifications. As a consequence, models spend significant time and attention preparing their bodies for the performance of modeling, engaging in round-the-clock self-discipline and surveillance. This chapter concludes with a discussion on the presence of size bias and thin privilege in the plus-size sector of fashion and the controversial movement to #DropThePlus and eliminate size distinctions between models.