ABSTRACT
Created by the law of 6 May 1919 and the decree of 30 July 1935, AOC wines have become a world reference point for quality, implying the existence of a positive link between a product and its original terroir. However, until the beginning of the 1970s, these AOC wines were still marginal, largely out-competed by ‘everyday’ or branded wines. At this point, AOC did not necessarily stand for quality. It was during the period known as the ‘30 Glorious Years’ that, under the impetus of determined players, this system succeeded in establishing itself in the market while at the same time becoming a cultural reference for critics and consumers. Whilst this development of AOC wines has undeniably benefited from a favourable political, social and economic context, it also depended, to a large extent, on regulating and scientifically justifying the quality of its products. Over about 30 years, by drawing on both science and supportive public authorities, the National Institute of Appellations of Origin (INAO) and the producers of AOC wines succeeded in both formalising a new discourse around the positive virtues of ‘terroir’ and creating a quality image for their wines. This positive image was based on three main elements. First was the acceptance of a standardised hierarchical system during and after the Second World War. Second was the development of a scientific framework around a revalorised terroir, a development of both emotional and economic importance. Finally, a collective effort to assess and characterise the product quality, which entailed a renovation of the process for tasting and judging, ensured the success of this movement for the AOC.
