ABSTRACT

Since the mid-1990s when major apparel brands began monitoring factories in their supply chains for adherence to codes of conduct regarding labour standards and working conditions, a ‘cat and mouse’ relationship between buyers and their suppliers has developed. Rather than proactively engaging in new business practices that would ensure safer, healthier, and fairer workplaces, many apparel manufacturers used deceptive and defensive practices to do as little as possible. This is beginning to change, however, as we have observed some apparel manufacturers who are key suppliers for global apparel brands beginning to proactively institute ‘world class’ corporate social responsibility (CSR). The purpose of this study was to describe the CSR work being carried out and to evaluate whether it creates a business case for social sustainability. We interviewed 18 CSR professionals whose companies buy from these manufacturers or whose organisations provide support for leadership activities of these manufacturers and conducted inductive and deductive analyses on the qualitative data. While the practices of these manufacturers have been notable, they have largely been unrewarded. Furthermore, they represent only business model improvements and expanded efforts will be needed to transform the working conditions for employees who toil in their facilities.