ABSTRACT
Prior to its recent inclusion in the upcoming 2020 Olympic games, indoor rock climbing has seen a significant rise in popularity. Research into the area has focused largely on the physiological, biomechanical and injury aspects of the sport – though little exists on a combined approach to improving climbing performance. For a strength and conditioning and injury prevention program to be successful, it must consider all aspects of the sport: the upper and lower limb contributions of the sport, the role of flexibility in elite climbers, biomechanical variations, physiological markers and energy system contributions. Specific strength markers and injury prevalence are all reviewed, leading to a fitness testing battery, strength training programme and conditioning templates. Consequently additional training away from the wall should aim to promote postural symmetry, increase flexibility around the pelvic girdle, and improve lower limb strength and upper body strength without further worsening postural biases from the sport.
