On a warm Sunday afternoon in December 2007, my driver navigated the rough road down to the site of the half-completed Murambi Technical School in southern Rwanda, where an estimated 50,000 Tutsi men, women and children were murdered between 20 and 21 April 1994 by the interahamwe militia and gendarmes (ICTR 2005: para 88). Although I had first travelled along the road from Butare to Cyangugu ten years earlier while conducting doctoral fieldwork, only now did I take the opportunity to visit the site, one of six national memorial sites in Rwanda and the largest after the Kigali Memorial Centre (see Sodaro 2011).1