ABSTRACT
Football fandom and sports culture are largely neglected in studies of Indonesia. This is despite the highly complex nature of football fandom in Indonesian cities. This essay draws on experiences in two cities in central Java: Yogyakarta and Solo. Contemporary football culture in Solo and Yogyakarta is linked to the policies of decentralization that have emerged in the post-New Order (1998 onwards) and to the deeply contested identity politics. The essay privileges the perspective of a capo (dirigen, conductor) from Solo in articulating the experience of identifying with a particular football club (Persis Solo) and that of an ex-player of PSS Sleman from the province of Yogyakarta. It explores how football culture plays a vital role in the establishment and maintenance of, and contestation over city and urban identity.
