ABSTRACT

This chapter summarizes the data and knowledge available from the literature on the grip capacity of climbers. Several studies have been conducted over the last decades to determine the maximum grip capacity and the forearm muscle fatigue of rock climbers compared to non-climbers and/or according to the grip technique used, for example crimp or slope. These studies have shown that compared to non-climbers, climbers can exert higher forces during fingertip tasks and are more resistant to forearm muscle fatigue. The differences in grip performance observed with the use of crimp and slope grips seem to depend on hold characteristics rather than on biomechanical configuration. In addition, biomechanical models have allowed the forces withstood by tendons and ligaments while gripping a hold as well as the specific muscle capacities of climbers to be estimated. These estimations have shown that the strong forces exerted on the musculoskeletal systems of the hand and finger lead to an important risk of pulley rupture. Expert climbers show a highly specific muscular adaptation, which demonstrates a major increase in finger flexor strength and, conversely, a reduction/conservation of finger extensor and wrist muscle strength. More generally, this chapter points to the need for developing new training tools and programmes which take into account individual climber’s physiological characteristics.