ABSTRACT
Ocean waves are examples of periodic progressive waves, and as they approach the shores, they are of particular interest to civil engineers involved in the design of marine structures or coastal defence works. Consequently, this chapter is concerned with the theories of periodic progressive waves and the interaction of waves with shorelines and coastal structures. In this chapter, the principal types of wave motions are described, how they are formed, transformed and attenuated. The linear wave theory equations are developed and their solution detailed to be able to apply them to solve typical problems. Next, processes occurring in the surf zone are described and equations presented to calculate wave set-up and longshore currents. This is followed by the analysis of wind, wave and water-level data to determine both the short- and long-term wave and water-level parameters used in engineering design. Lastly, current guidelines on how to account for the effects of climate change in coastal engineering design are introduced. This chapter also provides all the background knowledge required for the study of coastal engineering, which is presented in Chapter 16. Worked examples and problems for solution are also given in the text.
