ABSTRACT

This chapter repeats some of the theoretical knowledge on fluid mechanics, tides, waves and sediment transport. The text is intended mainly to refresh the reader’s knowledge of results and formulae. It also attempts to present a direct link between the more theoretical considerations and practical applications. Derivations have largely been omitted. The results of very specific model investigations that present empirical relations (such as the stability of rubble mounds) are not treated here, but rather in other dedicated chapters. If the content of this chapter is not familiar, the reader is referred to specialized textbooks or lecture notes on these subjects. Most of the relevant lecture notes are indicated in the special section of the list of references.