ABSTRACT
Introduction 574
Tanning Products: Sunless Tanning V. Tanning Accelerators, a
Market Review 574
Biological Tanning 576
The UV Radiation Response 576
Melanogenesis 578
Regulatory Considerations 579
Enhancing Biological Tanning 580
Artificial Tanning 581
Regulatory Considerations 582
Dihydroxyacetone 583
Formulating with DHA 586
Quality Control 586
Formulation 586
Top 10 Products Review (Ranked by 2002 Sales) 588
Tanning Accelerators 588
Sunless Tanners 591
Conclusion 594
References 595
INTRODUCTION
From the time a tan became symbolic of health and affluence in Western culture,
scientists the world over have been researching ways to enhance, accelerate, and
imitate the golden bronze look that consumers so deeply desire. In the dawn of
the tanning industry, reflective panels redirected the suns rays to the face while
mineral oil was slathered on the body to intensify the effects of basking in the
sun. With the 1960’s came a revolutionary new product concept, QT. This
product was the first consumer product that used dihydroxyacetone (DHA) to
provide a tanned appearance “in 3 to 5 hours without the sun”. The late 1970s
brought the tanning bed, a sarcophagus of fluorescent tubes that radiate UV to
fuel biological tanning without the sun. The first generation of tanning beds
emitted predominantly UV-A radiation. Advances in tanning beds led to quick
tan bulbs, which expanded the radiation spectrum to include UV-B and
produce a speedier bronze. As with many new mass recreational phenomena,
the increased tan population developed its own set of health related side
effects. The rise in population that tanned recreationally led to an increased popu-
lation with premature photoaging and skin cancer. Nonetheless, the market
demands for a healthy looking tanned appearance remain at an all-time high.
While the majority of this book deals with protecting us from the detrimental
effects of the sun, the authors of this chapter have chosen to investigate the
science behind the consumer demand. Advances in research are taking us ever
closer to that natural tan without the need for overexposure to harmful solar
radiation as well as an instant bronze that looks as if you have spent a week in
the Caribbean.