ABSTRACT
I HAVE spoken of the old fort at Gradina as being situate on a detached spur of the ridge which divides the seaward marshes from the eastern ones. The term ridge, however, is a misnomer, for the "hill," as they would call it in the Highlands, consists of a series of extinct volcanoes of greater or less extent, similar to the one I have described as existent at Pasman Island. As was the case there, all the centres of the craters are cultivated, and in one is a village-but such a village! The road, if one can possibly give it that name, approaching it consists of rock as rugged but more slippery than that of the surrounding hills. The filthy huts are thatched with reeds brought from the marsh. The very inhabitants seem to belong to that class in the scale of civilization which is below curiosity, and seeks rather to hide itself in its lair at the approach of a stranger. No stronger reminder of the fact that one is only some four or five miles from the Turkish frontier than a sight of this village gives could be required; and it is a proof
that the Turk is worse outside his own country, for the Herzegovinian villages are far superior to this.
