ABSTRACT

Protein. Its very name means ‘primary’. It forms ‘an important part of all living organisms, and the essential nitrogenous constituents of the food of animals’ (OED). The primacy of animal protein as a source of human food was scientific orthodoxy until well into the twentieth century, and the idea of nourishment remains the most heavily promoted explicit value used by meat suppliers. Much effort goes into informing the public that meat is an indispensable part of a healthy diet, and throughout modern society belief in the essential vitality of high protein intakeusually meaning meat-remains widespread:

‘With an adult it’s not so bad, but it’s with growing children they say there can be a problem with that form of diet, because they’ve got to eat so much more to get the same protein levels-i.e. to get that high protein level it’s not going to be healthy for the child to eat that amount that’s going to be required, if you see what I mean. Because with a high protein food, such as meat, the child is feeling satisfied and getting a good high protein ration. I believe that’s right…’

‘I don’t think I could become completely vegetarian. I think I’d find that difficult Because then you have to work out your protein balance, and make sure you’re getting enough soya beans and things.’