ABSTRACT

Trescij-Khang lies on the edge of a vast, sterile and terrible desert, to cross which takes about three months. We could find no guide, and for us to attempt such a journey alone meant certain death. The Lamá, the Governor and the Castellan took much trouble to find someone who knew the desert or who was returning to Third Thibet. Some time passed and then God, who never abandons those who put their trust in Him, provided us with the best escort that can be imagined. Two days’ journey from Trescij-Khang is a large district called Cartoa [Gartok], 24 garrisoned by a strong body of Tartar and Thibetan troops subject to the King of Third Thibet, not only to defend Trescij-Khang and divers villages, but to prevent armed bandits from approaching by little known paths and invading the country. At the head of these troops was a Tartar Prince, and since his death two years before, his wife had been in command (by name Caçal, according to Freyre). She had now obtained permission to return with her soldiers to Lhasá, the garrison being replaced by new troops under another commander, and early in October she came to Trescij-Khang to make the last arrangements. We were presented and begged her to allow us to travel under her protection to Lhasá. With most kind words the Princess replied that she would do all in her power not only to help us, but to make the long and difficult journey as pleasant as possible; adding that she esteemed it a great honour to be able to assist two Lamás from a distant land. During the short time she was at Trescij-Khang she insisted on our dining with her every day.