ABSTRACT

I had not rid on above a mile from the church of Xocotenango, when the hills and mountains seemed to depart one from another, leaving a more spacious object for the eye to behold, and a wider valley to wander in. The fame of that city from Mexico and Chiapa had raised up my thoughts to conceit of some strong walls, towers, forts or bulwarks to keep out an aspiring or attempting enemy. But when I came near and least thought of it, I found myself in it without entering through walls, or gates, or passing over any bridge, or finding any watch or guard to examine who I was; but passing by a new built church, standing near a place of dunghills, where were none but mean houses, some thatched, and some tiled, and asking what town that was, answer was made me that it was the city of Guatemala, and that that, being called St Sebastian, was the only parish church of the city. With this my high conceiting thoughts stooped down to think of some second Chiapa; till having continued on a while by houses on my right hand and dunghills on my left, I came to a broader street having houses on each side, which seemed to promise a city at hand. At my first turning I discovered a proud and stately cloister, which was the place of rest to my wearied body. I surrounded it to find out the back gate, and there lighted, and enquired for the Prior, who bad me very welcome, assuring me that for the Provincial’s sake I should want no encouragement, and that he would do for me much more than what the Provincial had signified unto him by letters. He told me he had been brought up in Spain, in the country of Asturias, where many English ships did use to come, and having seen there many of my nation he affected them very much, and to me as one of so good a nation, and as a stranger and pilgrim out of my own country, he would shew all the favour that the utmost of his power would afford. How glad was I to find in him so contrary an opinion to that of four-eyed Hidalgo? And how did he perform his words?