ABSTRACT
We could sensibly perceive in arriving at Burgos that this town is colder than any of those we passed; and ’tis likewise said you have none of those excessive heats which are intolerable in other parts of Spain. The town stands where you descend the mountain, and reaches to the plain as far as the river, which washes the foot of the wall. The streets are very strait and even: the castle is not great, but very strong, and is seen on the top of the mountain: a little lower is the triumphal arch of Fernando Gonzales, which the curious do much admire. This town was the first that was conquered from the Moors; and the Kings of Spain have long resided here; ’tis the capital of Old Castille; it holds the first rank in the two states of the two Castilles, although Toledo disputes it with her. You see her fine buildings; and Velasco’s palace is very stately. Here are in all the broad streets and spacious places, fountains with statues, some of which are good pieces; but the finest sight is the cathedral, which is so large that Mass is said in five several places of it without any disturbance to each other. The architecture is so exquisitely wrought that it may pass among the Gothic buildings for a masterpiece of art: and this is so much the more remarkable in that they build very sorrily in Spain; in some places this is through poverty, and in others want of stone and lime. I am told that even at Madrid you see houses of earth, and that the finest are made with brick, cemented with the same, for want of lime. To pass from the town to the suburbs of Bega you go over three stone bridges: the gate which answers that of Santa Maria stands high, with the image of the Virgin upon it. This suburb contains the greatest part of the convents and hospitals; there is a great one founded by Philip the Second to receive the pilgrims which go to St James, and which entertains them for a day. The Abbey of Mille Flores, whose building is very stately, is not far distant. You see here in this suburb several gardens which are watered with fountains and pleasant springs; the river serves for a channel: and you find in a great park enclosed with walls, pleasant walks at all times of the year.
