ABSTRACT
Wecan easily perceive that we are not far from Madrid, the weather is fair notwithstanding the season, and we have no more need of fire; but it seems very strange to us that in the inns which are the nearest to this great town you are worse used than in those which are a hundred leagues distant; you would think you came rather into deserts, than near a town where resides so great a monarch. And I can assure you, dear Cousin, that in our whole course I have not met with a house or castle that has pleased me; I am much amazed at it, for I thought that in this country, as in ours, I should find fine walks and curious seats, whereas you can scarcely see any trees, save some few which grow in spite of the soil. And at this time, when I am but ten leagues from Madrid, my chamber Stands even with the Stable; it is a hole that needs a light at noon, but what kind of a light think you? Better have none at all, for this is a lamp which banishes all cheerfulness by its glimmering light and your health by its stinking scent. And go you where you will, though to the curate of the parish, for a candle, you will not find one, and I doubt much whether there will be any in the church. Here everywhere a sad scene of poverty presents itself to your sight. Don Fernand de Toledo, who took notice of my astonishment, assured me I should see very fine things at Madrid; but I could not forbear telling him I could not easily imagine it. It is true, the Spaniards bear up under their indigence with such an air of gravity as would cheat one, the very peasants telling their Steps as they walk. They are mightily inquisitive after news, as if their whole being depended thereon. I have had many of ’em come into my chamber without any ceremony, and without clothes on their backs or shoes on their feet, entreating me to tell them what I knew of the Court of France; after I had spoke to them they have examined what I have said, and argued on it among themselves in such a manner as shewed great sense and a lively apprehension. This nation has ever had something extraordinary among them above others.
