ABSTRACT

Jim Erickson and Steve Wunsch were two of the most active free climbers in the Boulder region during ithe 1970’s. Both climbed extensively in other areas: Yosemite, the Shawangunks, Devil’s Lake, and Great Britain. They have much in common; a dedication to free climbing, the use of nuts for protection, and the ability to consistently pioneer difficult new routes. The main difference between them is expressed in Erickson’s “tainting” philosophy, contrasted to Wunsch’s willingness to take repeated leader falls. For a number of years these two, firm friends and climbing companions, have sparred as intellectual adversaries on points of philosophy and style. In the following interview, they discuss their approaches, and rock climbing in general.