ABSTRACT
New equipment and the introduction of more advanced techniques made possible a new psychological approach. Between 1949 and 1956, developments took place in Colorado rock climbing which radically changed its nature. Gaston Rebuffat’s technique was to suspend a short ladder from pitons hammered into the overhang. Arnold Wexler’s belaying techniques, the development of nylon climbing ropes, improved carabiners and better pitons, were all intended to provide a greater margin of safety in the rather unlikely eventuality of the leader falling. In 1948, with the ascent of the Northwest Passage completed, with a rudimentary knowledge of tension climbing techniques, with pitons for direct aid on overhanging rock and expansion bolts for blank crackless sections, the scene was set for exciting events. Sometime during the early 1950’s the story is told of James Peterson using a rather unconventional technique for belaying the roof.
