ABSTRACT
The Basic Set-in Sleeve fits smoothly into the armscye and is tapered to the wrist. The sleeve cap seamline should be slightly larger than the bodice sloper to create the ease necessary to cup the sleeve over the arm when stitching it in. It is standard to place single matching notches on front of a sleeve and armscye, and double matching notches on the back of a sleeve and armscye. The slash and spread method involves drawing lines onto a copy of the original pattern, cutting on that line, and then spreading the pattern until the desired fullness is achieved. The Bishop sleeve fits smoothly into the armscye and blouses out over a fitted cuff or into elastic at the wrist. If the sleeve is not gathered at the hem, then it would be considered a Bell Sleeve. The Leg-of-Mutton Sleeve is a full-length sleeve that has an exaggerated puff at the cap and then fits smoothly down the arm.
