ABSTRACT

The protection of local industries was a long-established political practice of the English state; termed mercantilism, this philosophy was generally followed throughout Europe. The example of French protectionist practice added weight to English arguments. The advent of lighter textiles of many kinds, along with the import of Indian cottons, challenged the textile status quo in the seventeenth century. It is worth noting that approximately a quarter of national expenditure was devoted to the purchase of textiles and clothing at the end of the 1600s. Wool had unique claims for protection and support. Although competing wool industries in various parts of England jockeyed for advantage in the market, the advocates of wool presented a united force in their anti-cotton polemics. France provided a telling example of protectionism, having banned calico printing within its borders in 1686, extending a ban on all calicoes and other textiles originating in China and India after 1687.