ABSTRACT

This chapter begins by noting the proliferation of ethical labelling schemes, which may also be variously referred to as sustainability standards and certifications, eco-labels, or ethical supply chain certifications.

The author then outlines how ethical labels grew out of the boycott movements of the late 20th century. It explains how they are proliferating because they can be an effective model for campaigners to drive change and for companies to manage risk.

It then outlines the four main characteristics of ethical labelling schemes: multi-stakeholder governance, standards, audits, and a fee structure.

This chapter then explains how ethical labelling schemes are essentially political projects and illustrates this by looking at schemes certifying around the same issues like the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO) and the Palm Oil Innovation Group.

It then goes on to explore some of the criticisms that schemes have attracted from all parts of the political spectrum and the emergence of formal coalitions of civil society groups (such as Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) Watch) designed to lobby some of the biggest schemes around greenwash.

It ends by observing how proliferation of ethical labels has led to civil society initiatives, such as the International Social and Environmental Accreditation and Labeling (ISEAL) Alliance, to help purchasers identify the best ethical labels.