ABSTRACT
What is the role of culture, when discussing a global movement, such as the revival and reinvention of tradition in foods and foodways? This question is tackled in this chapter through the analysis of the case of Greek olive oil. I explore olive oil as a ‘Greek basic food’, drawing on Roland Barthes’ work on mythologies (1991), and relating to historical sources, contemporary ethnographic works and literature as well as the narratives of deli owners and various Athenians. I follow the creation of the myth of the Greek olive oil, and how it is deeply rooted in Greek history and culture as a staple, carrying within it deep cultural meanings. I follow its journey from Greek villages to Athens, the local knowledge and the social networks around it. As such, in this chapter I define the cultural boundaries in the reinvention of tradition and demonstrate how during the process of the metamorphosis of cuisine, staple ingredients may provide resistances and breaks on their transformation into luxury items. By doing so, I redefine the role of culture in setting boundaries for global movements.
