Contents

XXV Chemise Dress c. 1785. Gallery of English Costume, Manchester 98

x x v i Robe à, l'Anglaise, early 1790 s. London Museum 99

x x v i i Stays, mid-eighteenth century, after Leloir 152

x x v i i i Corsage o f Marie Antoinette 1780's. M . Parquez 152

xxix Corset o f Lady Hamilton 1790's. Victoria and Albert Museum 152

XXX Jacket 1760-70. Gallery of English Costume, Manchester 153

x x x i Riding Coat 1750-70, Victoria and Albert Museum 153

x x x i i Round Robe c. 1795. London Museum 154

xxxi i i Open Robe c. 1797. Museum of Costume, Bath 155

x x x i v Open G o w n c. 1795. Victoria and Albert Museum 156

x x x v Robe with 'bib' front c. 1803. Cheltenham Museum 157

x x x v i Bodice o f Dress c. 1810. London Museum 158

x x x v i i Evening Dress 1816-19. Gallery of English Costume, Manchester 158

x x x v i i i Day Dress 1816-19. Privately owned 159

x x x i x Pelisse c. 1820. Central School of Art and Design, London 160

x l Evening Dress c. 1825. Gallery of English Costume, Manchester 161

x l i Day Dress c. 1834. Privately owned 162

x l i i Day Dress c. 1837. Museum of Costume, Bath 163

x l i i i Bodice c. 1839. Central School of Art and Design, London 164

xl iv Bodice, early 1840's. Central School of Art and Design, London 164

xlv Evening Dress, early 1840's. Privately owned 165

x l v i Summer Dress, early 1850's. Central School of Art and Design, London 166

x l v i i Carriage Dress, late 1850's. London Museum 167

xlv i i i Evening Dress, early 1860's. Central School of Art and Design, London 168

xl ix Afternoon Dress c. 1868-9. Privately owned 170

1 Bishop Sleeve 171

l i late 'Pagoda' Sleeve 171

lii Evening Dress (bustle) c. 1870. Central School of Art and Design, London 172

l i i i Day Dress (bustle) 1873. Cheltenham Museum 174

l iv Afternoon Dress (bustle) 1878. Central School of Art and Design, London page 176

lv Afternoon Dress (bustle) c. 1883. Gallery of English Costume, Manchester 178

l v i Day Dress (bustle) c. 1888. Victoria and Albert Museum 180

lv i i Evening Dress 1893-4. Privately owned 242

lv i i i 'Leg o' Mutton Sleeve 1895 243 l ix Day Dress c. 1895. Privately owned 244

lx Bolero c. 1895. Privately owned 245

l x i Blouse c. 1898. Central School of Art and Design, London 245

lx i i Afternoon Dress c. 1901. Central School of Art and Design, London 246

lx i i i Evening Dress 1905-6. Central School of Art and Design, London 248

lx iv Bolero Jacket and Skirt 1906-7. Victoria and Albert Museum 250

lxv Tub Frock 1910-11. Victoria and Albert Museum 252

lxv i Afternoon Dress 1910-11. London Museum 253 lxv i i Afternoon Dress (Lucile) 1911-12. London Museum 254

lxvi i i Afternoon Dress 1916-17. Privately owned 256

box Afternoon Dress c. 1918. London Museum 257 lxx Evening Dress 1920-1. Privately owned 258

l xx i Evening Dress (Poiret) 1922. Centre de Documentation du Costume, Paris 259 l xx i i Day Dress (Weldons) 1924. Gallery of English Costume, Manchester 260

lxx i i i Evening Dress (Vionnet) 1925. Centre du Documentation du Costume, Paris 261

lxxiv Evening Dress c. 1926. London Museum 262

lxxv Evening Dress 1925. Privately owned 262

T A I L O R S ' P A T T E R N S

1. A Farthingale 1589. Libro de Geometrica Practica y Traca. Juaan de Alcega 48

2. A woman's dress 1589. Libro de Geometrica Practica y Traca. Juaan de Alcega 48

3. A loose gown of cloth, with full sleeves 1589. Libro de Geometrica Practica y Traca. Juaan de Alcega 49

4. Three high necked bodices with sleeves 1618. Geometrica y Traca. F. de L a Rocha Burguen 49

5. A dress with a fitted bodice and a gored skirt, also a loose gown with full sleeves 1618. Geometrica y Traca. F. de La Rocha Burguen 50

6. A dress with a fitted bodice, a gored skirt with a train, and full sleeves 1618. Geometrica y Traca. F. de La Rocha Burguen 50

7. A fitted gown, cut without a waist seam 1618. Geometrica y Traca. F. de La RochaBurguen page 51

8. T w o full length cloaks 1618. Geometrica Practica y Traca. F. de La Rocha Burguen 51

9. The Stay-Maker 1769. Description des Arts et Metiers. M . Garsault, Paris 106

10. The Stay-Maker, English Stays 1769. Description des Arts et Metiers. M . Garsault, Paris 107

11. The Mantua-Maker 1769. Description des Arts et Metiers. M . Garsault, Paris 109

12. The Mil l iner 1769. Description des Arts et Metiers. M . Garsault, Paris 11o

13. Bodice without the usual seams 1796. The Taylor s Complete Guide, or A

Comprehensive Analysis of Beauty and Elegance in Dress 192

14. Pelisse, Sleeve, Habit, Spencer, Collar, Habit skirt 1822. The Tailor s Friendly Instructor, J . Wyatt 192

15. Bodice, Sleeve, Cape and Corset 1834. Petit Courier des Dames 193 16. Composite Bodice pattern 1834. Journal des Demoiselles 194

17-Bodices for Day and Evening wear 1844. Lehrbuch der Modernen Bekleidungskunst fur Damen 195

18. Sleeve variations 1844. Lehrbuch der Modernen Bekleidungskunst fur Damen 196

19. Mantles and Paletots 1844. Lehrbuch der Modernen Bekleidungskunst fur Damen 197

20. Shawl, Mantles and Dolmans 1844. Lehrbuch der Modernen Bekleidungskunst fur Damen 198

21. A Tailored Jacket 1850. The Gentleman's Magazine of Fashion 199

22. Ladies Paletot 1850. The Gentleman's Magazine of Fashion 199

23. Skirt 1871. Die Modernwelt 200

24. Double Breasted Alexandra Pelisse 1876. The Gentleman's Magazine of Fashion 200

25. Skirt and Plument Petticoats 1878. Myra's Journal of Dress and Fashion 201

26. A Ladies Fashionable Coat 1884. The Ladies Tailor 202

27. The Gladys W r a p 1885. The Ladies Tailor 203

28. Ladies Fashionable Dress Bodice 1885. The Ladies Tailor 204

29. Bathing Dress 1885. The Ladies' Tailor 205

30. H a l f Crinolines 1885. Myra's Journal of Dress and Fashion 206

31. Ladies Riding Habit 1885. The Tailor and Cutter 207

32. Foundation Skirt and Shaped skirt band 1889. The Cutters' Practical Guide 208

33. Measures and how to take them 1893. The Cutters' Practical Guide 209

34. N e w Style o f Skirt c. 1893. The Cutters' Practical Guide, W . D . F. Vincent 268

35. W a l k i n g Skirt 1897. The Direct System of Ladies' Cutting, T . H . Holding 269

36. Skirted Jacket c. 1893. The Cutters' Practical Guide, W . D . F. Vincent 270

37. Zouave Jacket c. 1893. The Cutters' Practical Guide, W . D . F. Vincent 271

38. Cape with additional Short Full Cape c. 1893. The Cutters' Practical Guide, W . D . F. Vincent 272

39-The Marlow Shirt c. 1893. The Cutters' Practical Guide, W . D . F. Vincent page 273

40. A Blouse for Spring 1896. The Ladies' Gazette 274

41. Highland Jacket 1897. The Direct System of Ladies' Cutting, T . H . Holding 276

42. Eton Jacket 1897. Tfte Direct System of Ladies' Cutting, T . H . Holding 277

43-The Deerstalker 1897. The Direct System of Ladies' Cutting, T . H . Holding 278

44-Ladies' Ulster 1897. The Direct System of Ladies' Cutting, T . H . Holding 279

45-Patterns from The Lady, 1891-1913 280-1

46. Bolero, Gored Skirt, Long Coat, Corselet Skirt and Short Boleros usually worn with the Corselet Skirt 1903. The Ladies' Tailor (The Tailor & Cutter) 282-3

47-Skirt variations, Costume with Corselet Skirt and Straight Coat, Harem Skirt 1909,1911. The Ladies' Tailor (The Tailor & Cutter) 284-5

48. "The Coat of the Season'—inspired by the Directoire styles 1909. The Ladies' Tailor (The Tailor & Cutter) 286

49-The straight-line costume 1911. The Ladies' Tailor (The Tailor & Cutter) 286

50. Kimona Promenade Costume 1915. The Ladies' Tailor (The Tailor & Cutter) 286

51. Fashionable Braided Costume 1915. The Ladies' Tailor (The Tailor & Cutter) 288

52. Coat with Magyar sleeves 1923. The Ladies' Tailor (The Tailor & Cutter) 288

53-A smart Russian Costume, Magyar Coat, Coat Frock 1921. The Ladies' Tailor (The Tailor & Cutter) 289

54-Coat, Dress, Skirt Yoke, Costume Coat, Costume Skirts c. 1929. The Cutters' Practical Guide (The Tailor & Cutter) 291

1612. Portrait. Artist unknown. Private collection colour frontispiece

plates 1 to 17 between pages 32 and 33

1. c. 1605. Anne o f Denmark, wife o f James I. Engraving. Victoria and Albert Museum 2. 1623. Duchess o f Richmond and Lennox. Engraving. Victoria and Albert Museum

3a, b. c. 1600. Embroidered jackets. Victoria and Albert Museum

4. c. 1610. H i p rolls. Caricature by I. de Vos and Galle. From a Dutch Engraving 5. 1607. Lady in Grey. Artist unknown. By courtesy of the Hon. M. L. Astor 6. c. 1628. Countess o f Southampton. Artist unknown. H a m House, Richmond 7. 1634. Henrietta o f Lorraine by Van Dyck. Kenwood House, Highgate, London

8a, b. 1639. T w o ladies from the well-known engravings by Hollar 9. c. 1640. Marchioness o f Winchester. Artist unknown

10. 1645. Corset o f cherry red satin, bound with turquoise ribbon. E. Wilson Filmer Collection. Art Gallery, Hull

11. 1660-5. Bodice o f ivory silk. Verney collection, Clay don House, Bucks

12. c. 1650. La Toilette. G . Ter Borch. Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam 13. c. 1660. Frances Courtenay, Countess o f Andover. Artist unknown. By courtesy of

the Earl of Aylesford

14. c. 1670. Monument, Sir Richard and Lady Atkins. St. Paul's Church, Clapham, London

15. 1660-70. From The Seasons. Artist unknown. Museo del Prado, Madrid 16. c. 1670. Katerina Agatha von Rappolstein by T . Roos. By courtesy of the Earl of

Southesk

17. 1670-80. Lady in town dress. I. D . de St. Jean

plates 18 to 39 between pages 112 and 113

18. c. 1700. Mantua and matching petticoat. Metropolitan Museum, New York

19. 1686. Engraving. I. D . de St. Jean

20. 1693. Lady wearing a Steinkirck. I. D . de St. Jean

21. c. 1690. Riding Habit

22. c. 1690. Madame la Duchesse Electoral de Bauierre. H . Bonnart

23a, b, c. 1727. Collection o f divers Fashions

24. c. 1730. Lady wearing a mantua with back draping. Gravelot

25. c. 1740. Lady wearing a quilted petticoat. A . Devis. By courtesy of M. Bernard

26. c. 1745. Lady Caroline Leigh. A . Devis. By courtesy of Major and the Hon. Mrs. R. N . Macdonald-Buchanan

27a. 1751. Coronation robes of Queen Louisa Urica of Sweden. Royal Armoury, Stockholm

27b. Pattern o f Coronation robes. Kungl, Livrustkammaren, Stockholm

28. 1750's. Maria Carolina o f Naples. A . R. Mengs. Museo del Prado, Madrid

29-1755-Madame Pompadour. F. Boucher. Wallace Collection

30. 1760-70. Sack dress. Victoria and Albert Museum

31. 1770's. Cream satin sack dress with matching petticoat. Victoria and Albert Museum

32. Late 1770' s. Mrs. Cadoux. British School, Tate Gallery

33. Late 1770's. La Sortie de L'Opera. G . Malbeste after Moreau

34. 1779. La Gallerie des Modes

35. 1780. La Gallerie des Modes

36. c. 1780. Madame de Mongirand. J . L . David. By courtesy of Mrs. P. Denman

37. c. 1790. Jeune Femme avec des fleurs bleues. Louis-Leopold Boil ly. Private collection

38. 1791-3. Fashion plates

39. c. 1790. Antoine Laurent Lavoisier and his wife. J . L . David. By courtesy of The Rockefeller University, New York

plates 40 to 57b between pages 144 and 145

40. 1794. Fashion plate. N . Heideloff

41. c. 1803. From Le B o n Genre 42. 1799-1809. Fashion plates 43. 1803-5. Muslin dress. Gallery of English Costume, Manchester

44. 1815-23. Fashion plates. Costume Parisien

45. 1827. Day dresses. Costume Parisien

46. 1830. Day dress. Costume Parisien

47. 1836. Morning and Evening dresses

48. c. 1840. Morning dress, Evening dress and Evening bodices 49. 1855. Day dresses

50a. 1862. Outdoor dresses. Ladies Magazine of Fashion

50b. 1862. Day dress, Bal l dress and Opera cloak. Ladies Magazine of Fashion

51a. 1870. Outdoor costume. Le Monde Elegant

51b. 1870. Bal l dress. Le Monde Elegant

52. c. 1876. Outdoor costume. The English Woman 's Domestic Magazine

53. 1876. Fashion plate. The Gentleman' s Magazine of Fashion

54. 1881. Outdoor and Indoor dress 55. 1883. Outdoor costume. The World of Fashion

56. 1885. Outdoor costume 57a, b. 1890. Walk ing costume

Plates 58 to 71 between pages 240 and 241

58. 1895. Evening dress. The Queen

59. 1895. Outdoor costume. Le Salon de la Mode

60a. 1897. Outdoor costume. Le Journal des Modes

60b. 1897. Outdoor costume. Le Journal des Modes

61. c. 1900. Outdoor costume 62. 1903. Outdoor costume. Le Journal des Modes

63. c. 1908. Afternoon dresses. Chic Parisien

64a. 1909. Day dress. Journal des Demoiselles

64b. 1909. Outdoor costume. Journal des Demoiselles

65. 1912. Day dresses. Journal des Demoiselles

66a. 1914. Afternoon dress. The Gazette du Bon Ton

66b. 1914. Dinner dress (Worth). The Gazette du Bon Ton

66c. 1914. Outdoor costume. The Gazette du Bon Ton

67. 1916. Day dress. The Gazette du Bon Ton

68. 1917. Outdoor costume 69. 1925. Coats and dresses. Chic Parisien

70. 1927-8. Evening dresses. Chic Parisien

71. 1929. Day dresses. Chic Parisien