ABSTRACT

Graz Sunday 4 July In the morning went into the church at Cilli which was well filled – the women who sat apart from the men wore a white cotton cloth folded picturesquely over the head – the men generally were dressed in short jackets, knee breeches of black buckskin or fustian, with boots which came up over their knees — their waistcoats studded with a thick row of metal buttons – & a broad brimmed hat. Left Cilli by the railroad at V2 past 11, & passed through a lovely country, bounded by hills every where clothed with trees to the summits; we glided from valley to valley or over extensive plains covered with maize, wheat, rye, etc; the scene always closed with a back ground of hills, varying in their distance & their outline; sometimes their sides when presenting a favorable aspect were planted with vines. There was an air of substantial comfort about the peasantry, their white-washed houses, & the villages with their picturesque churches. It being Sunday every body was well dressed, & I saw no one working in the fields. No cattle or sheep visible any where. The train travelled slowly & stopped very often. Arrived at Graz at ¼ past 5. […] The town, capital of Styria, is scattered over a large surface & contains 40,000 inhabitants. A substantial city, but somewhat rude in the style of its architecture to the eye of one who has been so long accustomed to the Italian cities. The people in the streets dressed gaily enough, but not in the purest taste — the men heavy looking, & always smoking their grotesque pipes.