ABSTRACT

This chapter considers the influence of Louis fashion. It explores what the Sun King's personal style was; how pervasive it was in Europe; and how far Charles and James adopted or resisted French fashions. Charles II's show of sartorial autonomy, there were many factors that kept the English court within the orbit of Louis XIV. In an age of personal monarchy, everything about the sovereign, including their clothing, was significant, as is evident from an incident reported by Pepys. The Pepys, who had adopted the new fashion as quickly as he could, was a loyal supporter of Charles, and was quick to seek to protect royal honour. The links between the craftsmen and French fashion, and between clothing and royalty, demonstrates in William Thackeray's cartoon of Louis XIV. From the 1650s to the mid-1670s, Louis XIV wore petticoat breeches or rhinegraves, with a short doublet, a full linen shirt, and a short cloak.