ABSTRACT
This chapter presents the states effort to co-opt the Mapuche and pacify the Araucana through culinary psychopolitics, examining the emergence of the Cocina Chilena Renovada paying particular emphasis to the commoditisation and nationalisation of a Mapuche condiment: merqun. Neoliberal multiculturalism incorporates indigenous people as long as they demonstrate a willingness and ability to adapt to neoliberal demands and embrace the entrepreneurial spirit either through becoming small-scale entrepreneurs or obedient workers. It is within this context that a Renewed Chilean Cuisine has emerged in the country, with merqun sticking out as an exemplar of an ethnic culinary commodity. Merqun is the taste that dominates the adventures of the new Chilean cuisine, and it has thus come to be an in this respect. This forced transition from being indigenous to being identified as a farmer has been gradually reversed with the transition to democracy.
