ABSTRACT
Despite such complex and demanding tasks Layard also found the time to relax and to make explorations in Assyria. When the leading men of the Yezidi sect came to Mosul to take care of some business with the Pasha they were of course invited to Layard's house where a large feast was arranged for them in the courtyard to give them an opportunity to sample the wonders of the Turkish cuisine (see Figure 26.1). Dr Sandwith has given a lively description of the events of this night. Like all of the others, he was acutely aware of the nervousness and suspicion of the Yezidis, for under normal circumstances a member of this sect would be as good as dead if found within the walls of Mosul after dark when the gates closed. The twenty guards who escorted the priests were extremely hesitant to put away their weapons, but after a time the mood became jolly and relaxed as the dinner progressed:
We were all seated in a large circle round the courtyard, and a crowd of servants brought in a succession of dishes overflowing with grease, which were attacked with the energy and perseverance of men who habitually lived in the saddle, and who had ridden forty miles to dinner. The feast was almost interminable, from the number of dishes, for it was a point of honour to make our guests over-eat themselves if possible. At last a huge pilau made its appearance, which is a sign of the end of the dinner, as a sweet pudding is with us.
Pipes and coffee were now brought, and each guest loosed the folds of his shawl and settled down to enjoy comfortably the hour that passes between dinner and bed. Just at this time a strange muffled noise is heard at the door, as if a number of people are trying to force a passage, and yet refrain from speaking aloud, then at once bursts upon the ear a wild, unearthly yell, and a troop of half-naked Arabs, with torches in one hand and naked sabres in the other, rush in upon the Yezidees. These latter, unarmed, astonished, with faces expressing indignation and horror at being thus betrayed to death, start to their feet, mechanically search for their arms, and with their backs to the walls seem prepared to meet their fate with indignant resignation. The Arabs approach, wave their gleaming swords above their heads, and turn off suddenly, and amidst shrieks of laughter commence their war-dance. Some little time elapsed ere the Yezidees quite recovered their equanimity, so sudden and terrible had been the start. It was a practical joke of somewhat dangerous character. Fortunately each guest was unarmed, or some one must have fallen.
