ABSTRACT
Two silk textiles, the Gara and Tanchoi saris emerged from the China Trade, during the nineteenth century. These Chinese textiles introduced by Parsi traders, were adopted and adapted by the women in the community and became a recognizable marker of the community, which until recently was used exclusively by the Parsis. Both textiles were introduced by Parsi China Trader, Jamsetjee Jejeebhoy.
The Gara in particular became a visible symbol of the soft power that romanticized the China Trade and veiled the effects of the ongoing opium trade. White embroidery on lustrous jewel toned silk, delighted the community and was worn only by members of the community. More recently, young Parsi fashion designers, such as Zenobia Davar and Ashdeen Lilaowalla, recontextualized Chinese motifs and their appearance on modern fashion apparel popularized the Gara embroidery.
The Tanchoi silk, an adaptation of a Chinese brocade, was Indian in design and style. The Tanchoi sari remained an integral part of every festive occasion in a Parsi home and was a part of every girl's trousseau. Over time, the number of Parsi weavers in Surat declined and Tanchoi weaving was taken over by weavers in Benares. In their hands, the Tanchoi was transformed into being wholly Indian in design. Both the Gara sari and the Tanchois are textiles treasured by the Parsi community and have over time become integral to the Parsi community's cultural identity.
