ABSTRACT

This chapter examines transnational frequencies at Tejo Bar, a small live music pub in Alfama, Portugal, using data collected through participant observation from 2017 to 2019, during anthropological field-work in Lisbon. Three key features were determinant for scrutinizing how the nocturnal city is imagined or experienced by locals and tourists: a) the regular audience made up of musicians, artists, writers, actors, and music producers, from all over the world; b) talking aloud or clapping between songs were prohibited, with hand rubbing used instead to create a whisper-like sound; and c) the Cabo Verdean host musician was not always present, allowing anyone to join the gig. This paper analyses how this peculiar night space shaped social practices and fostered a cosmopolitics of musicking.