ABSTRACT
The painting Khubilai Khan Hunting, attributed to the court artist Liu Guandao, shows the founder of the Yuan dynasty with his empress by his side, surrounded by his entourage of richly clad figures in a stark landscape. This chapter investigates the origins of Mongol dress and its relevance to the hunt, and discusses the foundations for approaches to Khubilai’s court. It explores the types of clothing that were worn by the early Mongols and their precursors – the Tanguts, Liao, and Jin – before turning to examples of how each group synthesized cultural practices. Prior to consolidating power and growing their territories, the Khitan, Jurchen, Tanguts, and Mongols wore sturdy clothing suitable for use on the Steppe – especially felt, leather, and furs. The diexie belt, which was a thin belt made of leather with short leather straps hanging from it, was worn by Liao court officials as part of their ceremonial dress.
